I have to admit – spending a week at Rancho Luna Resort near Cienfuegos, Cuba was a bit of a disappointment. I had hoped to witness the cheapest, lowest rated resort in Cuba, outside of Havana and Veradero and see first hand at the strife of this socially isolated country. Rancho Luna was far from the 1.5 stars given to it by TripCentral.ca. Especially at $540, taxes in, for a single occupancy room.
(Stay tuned for upcoming articles featuring more photos from Rancho Luna, El Nicho and Havana)
The resort was not a run down slum. Rancho Luna is basically similar to any 3 to 3+ star resort I have been at. Even the flight via a CanJet Boeing 737-800 was an unexpected pleasant experience. It seems the Canadian charter airline has traded in the rickety pieces of crap 737s that they flew last year for relatively new versions this season.
My god – even the hour long bus trip from Santa Clara (SNU) to the resort was probably the best I’ve experienced in the country. The bus even had a washroom on board! This is a centralized airport that also services the resorts on the north coast around Cayo Santa Maria. If you’re going to Memories Paraiso Azul, this is the same airport that you will use.
So. What and where is Rancho Luna? It is a smallish all-inclusive resort approximately 15-20 km from Cienfuegos, Cuba. The hotel is not of great size and is located on a decent sized property on the coast of the Caribbean Sea. There is a tiny village right next door with additional restaurants and a twin resort dubbed Faro Luna. Ownership was advertised as being a Horizontes resort but it was Club Amigo when I got there.
The basic review (see below for my no-bullshit personal take):
Resort Overview
Built in 1981, during the Soviet era, the resort is dated but well maintained considering the resources available.
It should be noted for those who don’t know the Cuban situation that the ‘Special Period’ began in 1991 when the Soviet Union dissolved. Trade was halted between Russia and Cuba and the island country fell into a state of despair. Cuba, who shunned foreign tourism of any kind, decided to open its doors in the late 1990’s to sunseekers from Canada and Western Europe. A resort built in 1981 was built for high end Cubans and Russian diplomats.
The resort is small with 225 rooms. Rancho Luna is sandwiched on one side by a livestock farm and on the other by a public beach. The beach in front of the resort is small and faces southwest into the Caribbean Sea. The angle affords great sunsets. Off to the east are the Sierra de Trinidad mountains – a very dramatic spectacle. The resort has one basic rectangle shaped pool but it’s large and clean.
Rooms
If possible, get a room on the main floor, looking toward the beach. You get a walk out patio in the back with chairs and a table. The other rooms are wellish-maintained and a bit small. There is just enough room for a single queen bed or two singles.
The bathrooms are basic. The water is safe, clean and drinkable. There doesn’t seem to be a shortage of hot water.
Each room is equipped with television featuring satellite channels with movies, Canadian news, American news and Cuban national T.V. It should be noted that the power is 220 (European style) and you will need an adaptor to plug in any North American devices.
Food
There are two restaurants. One is a buffet and the other is a la carte. For the most part, I didn’t even know the a la carte existed. The buffet is basic Cuba. Food is safe but mostly not very tasty. A warning to vegans and vegetarians: breakfast at any resort in Cuba features some sort of meat in every possible version of food. There is also food available during the day at the pool bar in the form of french fries and pizza.
Bars
There are three bars. The beach bar is open during the day and shuts down at 5pm. The pool bar is open until approximately 10pm. The lobby bar is seemingly always open. The official closing time of the lobby bar is 2am but I personally witnessed drinks being served later than that. The beer is Crystal – a staple at Cuban resorts. It is a good lightish beer that is similar to, say, a Coors Light. Booze doesn’t get too fancy but is ample.
As with other Cuban AI resorts, the bar staff might seem a little disinterested. Treat with respect, patience and a little bit of money and the initial ice will melt.
Recreation
As mentioned earlier, there is just one pool. It is a good size, warm and clean. There is a volleyball net across one end of the pool. However, volleyballs or any other sports equipment is in short supply.
The beach is protected from rough water by a nearby reef. Therefore, playing in the waves isn’t really an option. The water is clear and there is coral close by. The best option for snorkeling is to take out one of the paddle boats and tie off on one of two posts at the edge of the reef. The aquatic life isn’t teeming but is there. The coral is beautiful. There was always a paddle boat available and there didn’t seem to be any time limit on them.
There is a Scuba Centre on site at additional cost. They are not PADI certified so use at your own risk.
Entertainment
Rancho Luna features nightly entertainment. Not as lengthy and elaborate as some higher rated resorts, the nightly entertainment was always of good quality. Every second night, a great local band plays traditional music.
Excursions
Two words: Outstanding value. When most resorts have excursions that don’t drop below 80 CUC (Cuban convertible pesos), excursions out of Rancho Luna are rarely above 30 CUC. I personally took the day trip to Havana. The cost was 33 CUC – not including meals. The bus trip was just over three hours and it was an express tour of the highlights of the Cuban Capital.
I also took the day trip to El Nicho for 30 CUC. This is an absolute must if going anywhere near the Cienfuegos area. El Nicho is located in the Sierra de Trinidad mountains. It is a series of waterfalls and clear water pools in the tropically forested area. It is a photographer’s dream. The waterfalls and mountain scenery is amazing and the clear water pools at the bases of the waterfalls provides a simply heavenly swimming opportunity. At the one pool, you can swim beneath the waterfall and into a moss covered cave/overhang.
Tours to Cienfuegos, Trinidad and other natural locations are also available for very reasonable prices.
The No-Bullshit Opinion
Beware the burgeoning prostitution trade! Women, you have nothing to fear. Men, you will be approached. The ‘Chicas’ are not allowed on the property but walking the beach at night, you will more than likely be approached. The pimps, however, are not pushy and take ‘no’ for an answer the first time.
However, the public beach to the west is a different story. Single men will be harrassed. Same goes for any disco or nightclub in Cienfuegos. Canadian men return to this location several times a year for this specific reason. They pay 10-20 CUC for an evening. At first, you feel a disgust for these people of Cuba. However, you soon realize that the situation is not a bad reflection of the Cuban society but a bad reflection on our own.
You will not get a resort at a better value than this. For the week of January 22 to January 29, 2012, I paid $540 for a single occupancy room (it would have been $460 per person if there were two in the room). That price includes flight, taxes, airport transfer and all meals and alcohol. Despite the sex trade, the resort was safe and trouble free.
I said it before and I’ll say it again: If you don’t go to El Nicho – you have truly missed out on one of this planet’s treasures.
Visit the farms next door. I believe they will allow you into their home for a home-cooked Cuban meal for a fee (pefectly legal now in Cuba).
Bring cash. There is not a bank on site. The front desk will, however, exchange Canadian dollars for CUC’s with the CAD being worth .95 CUC. There is a store on site. Beer, wine and other booze is quite inexpensive. Cigarettes are .65 per pack. A bottle of wine can cost as low as 1.85. However, a can of Pringles potato chips will cost you 4.10!
Would I go back? I tend to never go back to a resort or location because there is so much more to see in this world. However, for the value and with the desire to explore the Sierra de Trinidad more, I would consider it. Snorkeling lacked the quantity and variety of fish, which is a big thing with me so a place like Playa Pesquero in Guardalavaca or Sol Pelicano in Cayo Largo would be more appropriate for that activity.
