Your wife wants you to take her to Paris but the only time you can afford to go is in late January when the rates are cheap and the weather is questionable. Also, it’s the height of hockey season and you’re not sure if you can stand being away from the game for a week.
Fear not. France is not all about soccer and cycling. The Ligue Magnus is the French version of the National Hockey League, albeit at a talent level of the East Coast Hockey League. Although there is not a team in Paris, at the end of January, the two best teams in all of France meet in the Bercy region of the city for the finals of the Coupe de France.
The Coupe de France for ‘hockey sur glace’ is a challenge cup that is separate from the Ligue Magnus regular season and playoffs. The Coupe de France does not just include teams from the elite league at the start. Teams from several levels begin play but eventually it most always comes down to two Ligue Magnus teams in the finals. The equivelent in North America would be having NHL, AHL, ECHL and CHL teams all entering a single knockout tournament. In the beginning, they get matchups that would be similar to the Boston Bruins taking on the Florida Everblades.
The championship game is played at the Palais Omnisport de Paris-Bercy (see Google Earth picture). The championship has been held at the POPB since 2007 and has increased in attendance almost each year. The current defending champion is Dragons de Rouen, a team that has been to the Coupe de France finals seven times since 2000.
If you do catch a Ligue Magnus game, you will see a number of Canadians on the ice. Typically, they will be graduates of Quebec’s QMJHL but each year there are also a handful of players that came from the OHL and WHL, as well.
The Palais Omnisport de Paris-Bercy is the largest indoor sports venue in France and was
opened in 1984. For hockey, the seating capacity is just under 14,000 although it can seat 17,000 for concerts. Typically, the arenas around the Ligue Magnus or more typical of the barns you’d find in the Ontario Hockey League.
The POPB is uniquely designed like a pyramid with grass growing up the sides of the building. The locations is ‘magnifique’, just a skip and a jump away from the Seine River, across the road from the subway and just blocks away from the Gare de Lyon train station. Also, right beside the arena is the expansive Parc de Percy.
The POPB has a handful of adjacent hotels, making this a great base for a trip to Paris, regardless of whether the Coupe de France is on or not. The best bet for comfort and price is the Hotel All-Seasons (see Google Earth picture). A room at the All-Seasons can be had for around €60 and breakfast is free for all visitors.
From the POPB and the All-Seasons, visitors can either take the subway to the main attractions or simply walk. Notre Dame and Le Louvre are definitely within walking distance. The Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe are, as well, depending on how much free time is available.
For hockey fans, if you are visiting the area in the winter time, do go to the POPB regardless of whether there is a main event on or not. The ‘basement’ of the complex has a couple more ice pads where minor hockey is played. It is definitely worth a quick look to see the differences between our hockey and theirs.
Our personal take:
We went here in February 2008 when the Coupe de France was played at a slightly later date that it has been the past few years. Although we didn’t by any means go just the hockey game, it was a pretty unique event for two Canadian hockey fans to see. Grenoble won over Rouen in a shootout in front of nearly 13,000 crazed fans. It was more like watching a European soccer game than a hockey game with each team’s fans chanting and singing from well before the game until the end.
The hotel was a great location, despite being away from the Moulin Rouge and Arc de Triomphe. The Paris subway is second to none and is incredibly simple to navigate.
The only thing one must remember if staying in this section of town: This is more of an office area (major government buildings are within a few blocks). Restaurants and bars are very active during the day and evening but you WILL NOT find late night food or drink in the neighbourhood! Before leaving the Champs de Elysee, make sure you fill up on food. And, for god’s sake, make sure you’ve pre-stocked your room with wine and beer!
One last thing – if you’re there on a package deal (ours was Transat Holidays), yes – you do get free transportation from and to the airport. This is great. However, if you’re on a strict timeline, the subway is by far the best way to get to the airport without getting stuck in traffic.
