Perhaps, it was me trying and failing to capture a visit to Lunenburg when I was a kid in the late 1970’s. Well, absolutely it was me trying and failing to capture a visit to Lunenburg when I was a kid in the late 1970’s. As I’ve learned over the past few years, the distance between now and my childhood is growing at what seems to be an exponential rate. Banff. Yellowstone. Lunenburg. They’ve all become tourism corporations with the goal of separating you from your money. The worst part is, they’re not just looking for any old tourist. They want the ones that want to spend, and spend a lot.
Sure, I’m a cynic. I’ve never claimed to be anything different. I group places like Lunenburg, Niagara Falls (Canada), Montreal’s Vieux Port, Banff and, absolutely, Yellowstone National Park into what I call ‘Douchebag Class’ tourist spots. They’re brought in by the busload, that aging, snobbish bunch from the U.S., China and other places with money to burn. They stay long enough to buy a gift, have a meal and take a selfie before getting back on that air conditioned bus and onward to their next destination.
Sure, Lunenburg, Nova Scotia is a beautiful place, both on the water and on the shore. The tourism dollars have helped make sure this town looks pristine and what it looked like a hundred years ago. But, it just wasn’t my Lunenburg. If you have the choice of only seeing one of either Lunenburg or Peggy’s Cove on a trip to Nova Scotia, take Peggy’s Cove every single time.
Lunenburg, Nova Scotia Image Gallery
Lunenburg, Nova Scotia
Lunenburg, Nova Scotia was founded way back in 1753 and was incorporated as a town on October 31, 1888. The current population is 2,263, some still in the traditional fishing industry. The town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. Four years earlier, it was named a National Historic Site of Canada. It was also honoured under the Nova Scotia Heritage Property Act in 2000.
The town played a role in both the American Revolution and the War of 1812, along with several other skirmishes. During World War I and World War II, it became an important port, repairing smaller sized warships.
One of the biggest draws is the Bluenose II schooner replica. We were fortunate enough to have that ship in port on our 2017 visit and were able to tour the ship. This might well be the only boat you can get onto for free during your visit.
Lunenburg is located along the Atlantic Coast in the south of Nova Scotia, right about in the middle of the province. The town is just under 100 kilometres from the centre of Halifax, Nova Scotia and makes for an easy day trip from the larger city. In fact, you should easily be able to visit both Lunenburg and Peggy’s Cove in a day from Halifax, with time to spare.
Final Word
So, should you visit? Despite my somewhat negative feelings about the town after our latest visit, I would probably still say yes. But, be patient. Parking can be a challenge and so can getting a table at one of the seafood restaurants. Also, if you’re with small children, this might not be the place for you.
Don’t forget, though, this is just one of many fishing villages dotting the shoreline. Nearly every restaurant in every small town has much fresher seafood that you’ll get in your hometown. We tried our hardest to get into a restaurant in both Lunenburg and Peggy’s Cove but the wait times were ridiculous. We ended up stopping along the highway just outside of Peggy’s Cove, on our way back to Halifax. The restaurant was outstanding and you really should look up Shaw’s Landing Restaurant if you’re headed in that direction.
If the Bluenose II is there, do not miss a chance to get on board. The crew are volunteers from across Canada and are available to talk with you and answer any questions you may have.
