I was recently feeling out the possibility of a summer road trip around the entire Great Lakes. Sure, it’s just a speck on the globe as a whole but it would still result in nothing less than a seven day tour if done at an express pace. Ideally, it would be more in the ten days to two weeks range.
Why the Great Lakes? I’ve been pining for the ‘Great American Road Trip’ for quite some time. Being from Canada, the U.S. provides an added dimension in that you can go in all directions, north, south, east and west. Whereas, in Canada, you’re mostly reduced to east and west. These road trips, some epic journies, were once commonplace. But then, the price of fuel increased dramatically…
Now, with gas prices reduced to levels not seen in many years, it’s time to hit the road again. Afterall, there is simply no possible way this is going to last. That’s not pessimism, that’s just the reality of the world economy.
So, 7-10 days looked at water? Not exactly, circling the Great Lakes takes you to both some of the most populated urban areas in the western world and some of the best wilderness in North America. You have the forgotten areas of Upstate New York; the rust belt cities like Cleveland, Ohio; the architectural wonder that is Chicago, Illinois; the underappreciated Milwaukee, Wisconsin and Ontario’s neglected Northwestern metropolis of Thunder Bay. You also have the wilderness around the east coast of Lake Erie, northern Wisconsin and Minnesota and a massive area of Northern Ontario.
However, that’s not what this article is about. While digging and dreaming about this potential road trip, I saw something that I’ve always noticed but it seemed like I was seeing it for the first time. There are two ferry boat options for crossing Lake Michigan from the state of Michigan to Wisconsin. Time saving, historic, relaxing and new experience are used to describe the possibilities here.
There are two boats that make regular passenger crossings of Lake Michigan outside of the winter months. There is the classic steam ship SS Badger and the modern high speed Lake Express. Both travel between different sets of destinations and both provide an entirely different experience. I don’t see why you can’t enjoy both.
S.S. Badger
The Badger runs from mid-May to mid-October, doing one return trip in the spring and fall and two trips during the summer months (mid June until late August). Typically, the ship starts the day at Ludington, departing at 8:45 in the morning and arriving at Manitowoc at 11:45am. It should be noted that Ludington is on Eastern Standard Time and Manitowoc is on Central Standard Time. S.S. Badger then leaves Manitowoc at 2pm and arrives back in Ludington at 7pm.
During the summer months, a red eye journey is added. The ship leaves Ludington at 8:30pm (awesome sunset opportunity) and arrives in Wisconsin at 11:30pm. She then turns around, leaving Manitowoc at 1am and arrives in Ludington at 6:15am.
The Badger began service in the spring of 1953 and joins U.S. highway 10, which stops at the shore in Michigan and restarts on the Wisconsin side. Therefore, the boat is part of the highway…
Not your fastest ship at a max of 15.6 knots, S.S. Badger is 410 feet in length and 59 feet wide. She is seven stories high and weighs 6,650 tons. Passenger capacity is 600 with room for 180 vehicles. The ship is a registered Michigan and Wisconsin historic site. She is also on the national register of U.S. historic places. SS Badger was to be mothballed in the early 1990’s but local Ludington entrepreneur Charles Conrad revived the service in 1991.
Four hours of staring at water? No. There’s lots to do on the ship. Besides the outside deck area, there is a deli-style snack bar, a buffet dining room and two lounges. Yes, lounge means booze. There is also a video arcade, children’s playroom, gift shop and museum.
What does it all cost? Parking is free on either side of the lake. That’s great if you’re doing a round trip without your vehicle. Going by 2014 prices, adults pay $66 for a one way trip or $121 for a round trip. Seniors get a bit of a break at $62 for a one way or $109 for a round trip. Children 5-15 pay just $24 or $39 for a round trip. Kids under five sail for free. There is an additional $4.50 security fee each way that doesn’t apply to children.
Updated Pricing (Feb. 25, 2017): The prices have dropped! $59 one way or $111 round trip for adults.
If you’re taking your car, the additional price is pretty much equal to another adult fare. Also on board are 40 staterooms that can be rented, providing privacy and a place to catch a nap on those red eye trips. Staterooms are available for a reasonable $49 for a one way trip.
The Destinations
Ludington, Michigan has a permanent population of around 8,000. This is a tourist town about 59 miles north of Muskegon on highway 31. Coming from the interstate system, Ludington is about 153 miles west of Saginaw and I75 on highway 10. Hotels in town, according to Hotels Dot Com run from $141 to $237 per night on a July weekend Prices for reference only and can change at any time – click the Hotels Dot Com ad in this article for more info.
Manitowoc, Wisconsin is a larger city at around 35,000. Just off I43, Manitowoc is 45 miles south of Green Bay and 81 miles north of Milwaukee. This is home to the unique Sputnikfest, celebrating September 5, 1962 when a 20 lb. chunk of the Soviet Sputnik 4 crashing in town. Manitowoc is also home to the more conventional Wisconsin Maritime Museum and the Lincoln Park Zoo. Hotels here on a July weekend are similar to Ludington in cost at $130 to $236 per night.
Official Website: S.S. Badger
Lake Express
If you’ve ever drove through Chicago, you’ll know it’s an experience you want to avoid at any cost if you’re just passing through on the way to somewhere else. Lake Express provides this service, taking you from Michigan to Wisconsin without the hassle of Chicago. Operating between May 1 and November 1, the ship runs two return trips daily in the spring and fall and three trips daily in the summer months (July 1 until Labour Day).
Lake Express was built in Mobile, Alabama by Austal USA and launched on March 20, 2004. She can reaching a whopping top speed of 34 knots. At 192 feet long and 57 feet wide, passenger capacity is 248 and 46 passenger vehicles can fit in her hull. Onboard is a snack bar and, yes, wine and beer are available. There is an outside deck with limited seating.
Slightly more expensive than S.S. Badger, an adult sails one way on Lake Express for $84 and a return trip is $139. Seniors, students and members of the military pay $76 for one way and $126 for a round trip. Children 5-17 pay just $28 and $44 for a round trip. Kids under five sail for free. There is a premier seating option for those 12 and older that runs $97 one way and $169 round trip for adults with seniors getting a $10 discount on the one way and $22 on the return. Vehicles cost about the same as an additional adult fare.
Updated Feb. 24, 2017: Adult pricing has increased to $91.50 / $153.00 for 2017. Seniors, students and military now pay $83.00 / $140.00. Children’s pricing has increased to $35 / $58.
The Destinations
Milwaukee, Wisconsin is a city of 600,000 with a metro population of 1.5 million. The city is 100 miles north of Chicago and is located at the intersection of I94 and I43. Hotels can be had from $105 per night on a July weekend.
Muskegon, Michigan is a city of 38,000 with a metro population of 170,000, located 42 miles northwest of Grand Rapids and 197 miles from Detroit. Hotel rooms start at $95 on a July weekend.
It should be noted that parking is not free when using the Lake Express. At either side, parking costs $5 per day.
Official Website: Lake Express
Final Take
A little distance perspective for Canadians living in Southern Ontario. The distance from Sarnia/Port Huron is 411km to Ludington, 356km to Muskegon, 822km to Manitowoc and 695km to Milwaukee.
To take the car or not? For me, personally, I would park the car for the S.S. Badger. Both destinations are fairly small and easy to explore without a vehicle. Besides, the cost of a rental is probably less than the fee to cross. However, if you’re travelling one way, there’s obviously only one option.
For Lake Express, taking the car is probably the better option as you are most likely using it for the high speed factor on a one way trip. Despite living in the shadow of Chicago, Milwaukee is a big city and having your own transportation would probably be a good thing. However, once again, if you’re just visiting for a day then returning by Lake Express, a rental is probably cheaper than putting your car on the boat.
I’m thinking circle route. Take the Badger across one way and return on the Lake Express, or vice versa.
